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Bra-Fitting Advice

Know your bra parts

Bra Parts

How to fit yourself properly when you are full busted

  • measure the underbust (band size)
  • measure the overbust   (cup size)
  • go to the size chart and match the underbust measurements with the overbust measurements

See other tabs for instructions how to measure overbust and overbust

How to measure your underbust

In order to find the the bra size you need to measure the underbust. The result will help you determine the cup size.

Measure yourself wearing a soft bra and using a measuring tape.

Measuring tape has to be placed under the bust and has to be parallel  to the floor.

The measurement has to be taken tightly. The band material will stretch over time and the band provides 80% of support to the breasts.

Read the number of the measuring tape as it will serve as a base for the calculation of the band size 

How to measure your overbust

The second measurement needed to determine the cup size is the overbust measurement.  

Measure yourself using a measuring the tape and  by placing the tape in the middle of the widest part of the bust. Do not move your arms forward or bend as it will skew the result. Take the measurement loosely.

Remember the number as you will need it to find out the cup size which is always relevant to the band size.

How to find the cup size

The cup size is only relevant to the band size. Using both measurements go to the  Size Chart  and  m atch the band size (under bust measurements)  with your over-bust measurement to find your cup size. 

How to find out whether the bra fits 

A bra that fits has the following characteristics : 

  • band is comfortably tight and does not ride up in the back
  • breast tissue does not overflow on the top or on the sides of the cups
  • there is no empty space on the top of the cups 
  • there is not empty space on the bottom of the cups 
  • straps do not dig into the flesh 
  • breasts are separated and uplifted 
  • wires encircle the breast tissue without digging to the flesh
  • breasts are separated and uplifted 

Common bra-fitting issues & solutions

If you bra does not fit see below for help on how to find the right size:

  • If the cups fit well but the band is too loose  choose a bra with smaller band but one cup bigger. For example if you bought 34G exchange the bra for the size 32H 
  • If the cups fit well but the band is to tight choose the bra with larger band but one cup smaller. For example if you bought 34G exchange the bra for 36F
  • If the band is right but the cups do not fit (breasts are bulging on the top or on the sides), choose a bra with bigger cups. For example if you bought 34G exchange the bra for the size 34I 
  • If the band is right but the cups are too big ( the bra cups pucker), choose the bra with smaller cups. For example if you bought 34G exchange the bra for 34F
  • If one cup fits fine, another one puckers. Breast tend to be asymmetrical. Choose padded bras or bras with a stretch fabric on the top. You can also purchase a "cookie" to use it to fill the empty space in the bra cup
  • If  you  have empty space/gapping towards the centre, but not at the outer-upper cup this is due to having more outer fullness and less center fullness. Change the style of  the bra to less deep in the cups (Angelica from the basic line would be a good example)

  •   If your gore does not lie flat but the cups and the band fit well. This   is due to having more inner fullness and less outer fullnes. Change the style of  the bra to style that offers deeper cups ei. Joanna from the basic line. Some people will not get a tacking gore in any bra, whether due to the shape of their sternum or a medical condition such as pectus excavatum.

  • If you have empty space at the bottom of the cup, but the top fits well. You should align the underwires with the breast root. It might mean that you are fuller on top than on the bottom and the bottom part of the cup cannot be filled due to lower breast volume. This is not a deal breaker as long as the bra is supportive and comfortable 

  • Underwires poke my underarm. The cup size is too small and the wires cut into flesh causing discomfort. Choose a bra with the same band and larger cup
  • Underwire is poking my armpit. Wires are too tall for your build. Look for other styles of bra like balconettes or demi styles that have shorter wires.

If you not sure you can always contact us at support@polkadotbra.ca 

How to use sister sizes

Sister size is a term used in a bra-fitting to describe a bra with different band sizes but the same cup volume.  

After you  measure yourself following our step by step video, find the band and cup size by going to our size chart. This is your optimal bra size.

However it is possible to fit into more bra sizes than one, by going up in band size and down in the cup size or by going down in the band size and up in the cup size.

If you measured yourself and determined the size to be 34G, the sister sizes will be 32H or 36F. 


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