Bra-Fitting Advice

Know your bra parts

How to fit yourself properly when you are full busted and wear a large cup bra

• measure the underbust (band size)
• measure the overbust (cup size)
• go to the size chart and match the underbust measurements with the overbust measurements

See other tabs for instructions how to measure overbust and overbust

How to measure your underbust

In order to find the bra size, you need to measure the underbust. The result will help you determine the band size.

Measure yourself while wearing a soft bra and using a measuring tape.

Measuring tape has to be placed under the bust and has to be parallel to the floor.

The measurement has to be taken tightly. The band material will stretch over time and the band provides 80% of support to the breasts.

Read the number of the measuring tape as it will serve as a base for the calculation of the band size 

How to measure your overbust

The second measurement needed to determine the cup size is the overbust measurement.

Measure yourself by placing the measuring tape in the middle of the widest part of the bust. Do not move your arms forward or bend as it will skew the result. Take the measurement loosely.

Remember the number as you will need it to find out the cup size which is always relevant to the band size.

How to find the cup size

The cup size is only relevant to the band size. Using both measurements go to the Size Chart and match the band size (underbust measurements) with your overbust measurement to find your cup size. 

How to find out whether the bra fits 

A bra that fits has the following characteristics: 

• band is comfortably tight and does not ride up in the back
• breast tissue does not overflow on the top or on the sides of the cups
• there is no empty space on the top of the cups 
• there is no empty space on the bottom of the cups 
• straps do not dig into the skin 
• breasts are separated and uplifted 
• wires encircle the breast tissue without digging to the skin

Common bra-fitting issues & solutions

If you bra does not fit see below for help on how to find the right size:

• If the cups fit well, but the band is too loose, choose a bra with a smaller band but one cup bigger. For example, if you bought 34G exchange the bra for the size 32H 
• If the cups fit well, but the band is too tight, choose the bra with larger band but one cup smaller. For example if you bought 34G exchange the bra for 36F
• If the band is right, but the cups do not fit (breasts are bulging on the top or on the sides), choose a bra with bigger cups. For example if you bought 34G exchange the bra for the size 34I 
• If the band is right, but the cups are too big (the bra cups pucker), choose the bra with smaller cups. For example if you bought 34G exchange the bra for 34F
• If one cup fits fine, another one puckers. Breast tend to be asymmetrical. Choose padded bras or bras with a stretch fabric on the top. You can also purchase a "cookie" to use it to fill the empty space in the bra cup

• If you have empty space/gapping towards the centre, but not at the outer-upper cup this is due to having more outer fullness and less center fullness. Change the style of  the bra to less deep in the cups (Angelica from the basic line would be a good example)

•  If your gore does not lie flat, but the cups and the band fit well. Thisis due to having more inner fullness and less outer fullness. Change the style of the bra to style that offers deeper cups ie. Joanna from the basic line. Some people will not get a tacking gore in any bra, whether due to the shape of their sternum or a medical condition such as pectus excavatum.

• If you have empty space at the bottom of the cup, but the top fits well. You should align the underwires with the breast root. It might mean that you are fuller on top than on the bottom and the bottom part of the cup cannot be filled due to lower breast volume. This is not a deal breaker as long as the bra is supportive and comfortable.
  

• Underwires pokes my underarm. The cup size is too small and the wires cut into the skin causing discomfort. Choose a bra with the same band and a larger cup.
• Underwire is poking my armpit. Wires are too tall for your build. Look for other styles of bra like balconettes or demi styles that have shorter wires.
• The straps are digging into the skin, loosen them up as they can cause back pain. If you find your bra is moving and it is not stable then you need to go down in the band size.
• The straps are not parallel to each other when you look at them from the back. Increase the band size as it is too tight.

If you not sure you can always contact us at support@polkadotbra.ca

How to use sister sizes

Sister size is a term used in a bra-fitting to describe a bra with different band sizes but the same cup volume.  

After you measure yourself following our step by step video, find the band and cup size by going to our size chart. This is your optimal bra size.

However it is possible to fit into more bra sizes than one, by going up in band size and down in the cup size or by going down in the band size and up in the cup size.

If you measured yourself and determined the size to be 34G, the sister sizes will be 32H or 36F.

What to consider when buying a bra

• Not all bras are made the same. The same style large cup bra will fit you differently if different materials are used and have different stretching abilities.
• Know your breasts. Our breasts as unique as we are. Most of the time one breast will be larger than another one. There are not two identical breasts, not even if they belong to the same person. If your breasts are full on top finding full figure push up bra might be challenging as these styles tend to be not deep but shallow. If your breast are sagging you might want try molded or padded bras as they will fit you better than soft, sheer bras. 
• Be adventurous. Try a different style of bras. Enjoy different textures and colours
• Don't get stuck on numbers. Full figure bras and cup sizes over D are not as big as your think they are. Many women wear a wrong size bra
• Remember you are the best fitter. You must feel comfortable in it. What is the point of a perfectly fitted bra if you don't wear it!

What are the risks of wearing a wrong size bra

• breast pain
• pain in the ribs
• unexplained headaches and shoulder pains
• lack of comfort 

The risks are higher for women who are full figure and wear large cup bras.

Do I really need to buy a nursing bra? How do I choose one ? 

Also when you buy a bra before your labour choose a bra with one size smaller band and cups two sizes larger.
For example if your regular bra size is 36DD buy 34G to compensate for the milk supply and weight loss after giving birth.

Breast shapes & what does it mean in terms of bra fitting

• Broad root breasts

 

 

Broad breasts mean that your breast go far to the side of your chest, the breast tissue is spread out across the chest. These breast are usually not very projected. Owners of these breasts have often difficulties in determining their size. These babes will have problems with filling up the cups, when they try to downsize in cups, the wires dig in and are uncomfortable. Finding bras for babes with wide roots that requires shallow cups can be challenging. What to look for are bras that have shallow cups and wider wires and horizontal seams. Often balconettes and some plunges will fit the bill.